Heading to the Park
We woke up early and prepared our packs before heading down for the hotel’s breakfast. It was a step up from the usual “hot breakfast” selection, and included eggs, potato cubes, sausage and bacon, and tortilla wraps. Lunch is always an unknown when we go hiking, so I try to eat a hearty breakfast each morning; I made myself a fully stuffed burrito and added a yogurt for protein.
There was a line of cars waiting to get into the park when we arrived. Not knowing if they were the first group or if the lots would be full, we decided to return to the sparse Springdale streets and take the town shuttle instead. Our wait was relatively short.
The shuttle dropped us at the edge of the town where you could cross a short bridge over a river to enter the park. On the Springdale side was a collection of shops, a restaurant, and an outfitter where you could rent gear to explore the Narrows. It’s a nice convenience for those walking into the park as opposed to driving.
In some ways, walking from Springdale into the park was a neat experience. We hadn’t walked miles to get there, but it was the first time I could say that I had let my car behind and walked into a National Park.
Watchman Trail
Our first legitimate hike in Zion did not require a shuttle ride. The Watchman trail began from the visitor center and followed the Virgin River for a short while before heading up the cliffs to a small mesa.
The trail from the visitor center to the base of the cliffs was drenched in sunlight, but as we started to climb, we were shielded from those warm rays and discovered just how chilly the morning really was.
As the sun crested the Watchman peak, we were treated to an enlightening experience. We literally watched as the demarkation between sun and shade was swept away, as though someone was opening a shade. What took us fifteen minutes to cross was fully lit up within seconds—it felt as though we had just lived a time-lapse video.
Along the way we passed a cut out section of the cliff with a rock that looked like it had been carved into the shape of a chair. If it wasn’t carved by man, it was at least smoothed by the thousands of people who sat in it. With its view overlooking the lower valley, it was a perfect place to stop.
The trail curved around to the canyon wall opposite our current location, and leveled out before we emerged onto the mesa. Six other people were there when we arrived, but, unlike the Riverwalk, it did not feel crowded. The entire hike had been like that—a few folks here and there (including a couple of runners!) but one still had the opportunity to feel connected with the trail.
The view was stunning, a 360° panoramic feast for the eyes. From our vantage point, we could see most of the lower valley, bits of Springdale, and, of course, the Watchman peak.
We removed our packs and committed to staying for a short while. We do not hike at a brisk pace. If time was important we could surely complete most trails in roughly half the time we take. But that’s not why we’re there. We want to admire the views along the way and focus on the experience of the entire journey. Even so, we also enjoy the adventure and discovery that accompanies new places, so we do need to remind ourselves to stop from time to time and find permanence in the moment.
After taking some photos, I allowed my eyes to soak up everything around me, from the cliffs in the distance to the pinion pines and sagebrush on the mesa. I touched the dirt, rocks, trees, and bushes so they would have tangible meaning outside of my photographs. I removed my hat and then sat quietly on an outcropping, closing my eyes and focusing on the slight breeze that swirled past me, the gentle warming of the sun. I listened for sounds and detected only the occasional movement of those on the mesa with us and the distance revving of the park shuttles as they moved from stop to stop.
After 25-30 minutes we headed back. I looked around one last time and noticed how the sun now lit up the entire face of the Watchman. I recalled that this trail was regarded as one of the best spots in the park for sunsets, and I understood why. The golden light on the multi-colored rock would certainly have been beautiful. A sunset trip is something I would definitely consider in the future, even though it would mean hiking back in the dark. (It’s an easy trail to follow so there would be no fear of getting lost.)
Lunch
We were hungry after the Watchman trail but didn’t want to spend too much time tracking down food, so we decided to give the restaurant right outside the park a shot. It had a great outdoor eating section with the views we now expected of Zion. Needless to say, we enjoyed the meal.
Pa’rus Trail
The Pa’rus Trail was a paved path that ran from the visitor center, though the south campground, to the museum, and then continued on to Canyon Junction. The sun was at full force by the time we started walking, and there was no wind or shade for relief—we grew hot quickly. Fortunately, I had only planned to follow the trail to the museum and then pick up a shuttle, so we were not on it for too long.
This is a trail you take for the views as opposed to the adventure. It was also the only one in the park that allowed biking and pets.
Weeping Rock
Our final stop was at the Weeping Rock site. From this trailhead there were three possible destinations: Weeping Rock, Hidden Canyon, and Observation Point. Each branch was clearly marked, which was a good thing because to go the wrong way would have resulted in a markedly different (i.e. strenuous) experience!
This trail was perhaps the shortest in the park, and while it was rated “easy,” the broken pavement and steep incline made it a bit more challenging than expected.
At the end of the .25 mile trail was a large alcove. Water rained down the from the mouth and also managed to seep into the rock and feed a hanging garden. We could hear the pitter patter of the water as it hit the ground, but the actual flow volume was only visible when viewed against a dark background. The falling droplets glistened in the sunshine, and a cool mist hung in the air. It was a very relaxing place to be.
A Changed Perspective
We rode the shuttle back to the visitor center and I noticed the time was near what’s known as the “golden hour”. We walked a portion of the Watchman trail in order to get an unobstructed view of our morning’s destination, which was now bathed in the yellow hues of the setting sun.
I took a few pictures, then we walked out of Zion and took the Springdale shuttle back to where our car was parked. The cliffs and peaks around Springdale were now very red as the sun prepared for its final decent—almost glowing—so I captured a few more images before we entered the car and headed “home.”
I felt different about Zion now. Yes, there were still crowds at the shuttle stops, but we had finally experienced a more “off the beaten path” aspect of the park, and there was no denying the beauty it contained.
I looked forward to what else we would discover over the next few days.